Waka-Cycle

The air is fresh and the sky is an almost transparent clear blue. It’s a perfect day for cycling! This time, I begin my tour at JR Tsuruga Station. With the launch of the Hokuriku Shinkansen line in March 2024, this terminal station is much easier to access from the major metropolitan areas. Tsuruga Station West Square Park is located in the center of the combined commercial facility Otta in front of the station and has a beautiful lawn. That is where I straddle my bicycle and start the Waka-Cycle tour!

For the first part of the course, the roads are flat, and I’ll do fine with light pedaling. At the 6 km mark from the start line, I arrive at Kehi no Matsubara (Pine Tree Park), featuring white sand beaches and lush green pine trees. Let’s enjoy the scenery here, a spot considered one of the three major pine forests in Japan, as we ride past the pine groves along the seaside. The dappled sunlight shining through the pine trees and the smell of the sea air invigorates me as I ride by!

Once past the pine forest, I approach the Tsuruga Peninsula as I pass along the quiet Tsuruga Bay. But easy rides are always accompanied by challenges. From this point onward, I will have to climb a steep uphill slope. When I reach the top, I will find myself at the highest point along the Waka-Cycle route, nearby the Majou Pass Tunnel. I raise my hips from the seat and use the extra force to pedal harder. I can do it!

After exiting the tunnel at Majou Pass, the road is bordered by fields and forests on both sides. The sunlight shining on the leaves of the trees makes me feel as though I am bathing in the forest air. After that tough uphill challenge, I am rewarded with a rapid decline. As I enjoy the scenery on my way down while being careful not to go too fast, I spy the Wakasa Bay and the beautiful sandy beach at the end! This is Suishohama, or crystal beach, famous for its beauty.

At Suishohama, the contrast between the clear ocean waters and the beautiful sparkling white sand is enchanting. This beach is filled with beach goers in the summertime, but riding along the beach during the off season when it is more quiet, I feel as though I’ve wandered into a scene from a movie. With the blue sea to my right, this section of the cycling road is broken up into many short up and down hill slopes, so I certainly won’t get bored.

After passing through Mihama, I see Mikatagoko (the Five Lakes of Mikata) in the distance. The Mikatagoko are also known as the five colored lakes because each appears in a different shade of blue. First I pass by Lake Kugushi, where boating sports are popular, after which Lake Hiruga appears. The shoreline of Lake Hiruga boasts a rather nostalgic cluster of inns and boathouses. I get off my bike here and snap a picture! There is definitely something nostalgic about this scene, as though I could watch it forever.

Leaving Lake Hiruga, I next ride along Suigetsu Lake at a leisurely pace.

Then, as I travel further along the shoreline of Lake Mikata, I see Roadside Station Mikatagoko appear to the left. Stopping there for a break, I see a wide array of goods made with Ume plums, a local specialty. I’m getting thirsty, so I purchase a bottle of “good job,” a local drink said to reduce fatigue. I look over the lake, said to be a popular spot with local birds, from the terrace on the shore, as the light, refreshing sourness of my “good job” spreads throughout my body.

My tiredness has worn off, so I return to cycling! After passing through the tunnel of trees alongside Suga Lake, I return to Lake Kugushi. The roads around the Mikatagoko are a compact and comfortable route to ride, right on the edge of the lakes. The route is also known as “Goko-Ichi” (meaning one circuit around the five lakes), and is one of the most popular sections on the Waka-Cycle route. This spot is approximately the center of the entire route, located about 60 km from Tsuruga Station.

Having ridden half the circumference of the Mikatagoko again, we are back along the shore of Lake Mikata. The road leading from Lake Mikata to Wakasa bay is a very steep incline, and quite a challenge. But awaiting us at the end of it is the Sekumi Observation Deck and some amazing views! Ube Island seems to be floating off in the distance. I ride along the shoreline of Obama Bay at a leisurely pace as I head into the town of Obama.

Once there, I stop by at Unjosui, a source of natural spring water. Here, the underground water that bubbles up from 30 meters below ground maintains a temperature of 13 degrees Celsius (55 degrees Fahrenheit) year round. This delicious water seemed to spread to every pore in my body.

When I reached Obama Park, I decided to deviate from the course a bit and stop by the historic streets of Sancho-machi. Here I get off my bike and take a leisurely stroll through the alleyways. This town once prospered as a port of call for the Kitamae-bune ships that once connected Japan, from Osaka to Hokkaido, via the Sea of Japan. Designated as a Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings by the national government, many inns and other structures remain along these streets, and give you the sense that you’ve slipped back in time.

I leave Sancho-machi and start riding again. After passing through a series of small hills with short ups and downs, I arrive at Kato Coast. I park my bike by the ocean and take a break. I spy a small island called Ao Island roughly 1 kilometer off shore. The forest on the island is a primeval evergreen forest that is designated as a national natural monument. I sensed an almost mystical aura from that forest, so I had to snap a photo.

I depart from Kato Coast and temporarily head away from the sea. I ride through an urban area with lots of ups and downs again, and after about 8 km, I see the ocean again. I’m a bit hungry, so I think I’ll stop by See Sea Park!

See Sea Park is a commercial complex opened in July 2022. The impressive, seemingly transparent building seems to melt into the surrounding scenery. The interior is quite stylish, featuring café dining options and fashion stores. This is a good way to recharge for the last leg of the trip!

After leaving See Sea Park and riding for a bit, I arrive at Aoto Bridge. Connecting the Aoto Inlet in the south west of Obama Bay to the Oshima Peninsula, Aoto Bridge is known for its bright red color. The ride across its total length of roughly 750 meters is dynamic! It is exhilarating, as if I’m riding directly on the water.

I’ve finally reached the Takahama section of the course! From here to the finish line, the route is completely flat, with no ups and downs.

Wakasa Wada Beach, the first beach in Asia to receive the international environmental Blue Flag certification, is one of the best views along the Waka-Cycle route. I get off my bike and descend to the beach to enjoy the view for a moment. After drinking my fill of the view, almost like a painting, woven by the sea juxtaposed against Mt. Aoba, also known as Wakasa Fuji, I get back on the scenic road along the beach and head west.

Now I head towards the final destination, JR Wakasa Takahama Station. The station is only a short stretch along the seaside past Shiroyama Park, famous for the scenic Meikyodo Cave.

I have only 1 km left to go. Now it’s just 500 meters. Now 100! I’m there!

I can’t resist making a victory pose. Seeing as I’m here, I might as well take a commemorative photo with the statue of Kyoryu Hakase (Dinosaur Professor) seated on the bench in front of the station. I feel as though Kyoryu Hakase is raising his right hand to celebrate my completion of the course.

So, what did you think of the Waka-Cycle course, covering a total of 126 kilometers through the Tsuruga-Wakasa region in Fukui Prefecture? This time I rode a model course leaving JR Tsuruga Station and arriving at Wakasa Takahama Station. I really believe that this is an amazing course where you can enjoy the fun of cycling to the fullest while experiencing the unique nature, townscapes, history, and food culture of each of the cities and towns you pass through. And you can start and end your trip along the Waka-Cycle route anywhere you like. I hope you enjoy Tsuruga-Wakasa via your own ideal route!